Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and travelers equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, UNESCO honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a select group of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it joins a international community of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "is a testament to its deep-rooted culinary traditions and lively culinary scene," as stated by a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this venerable city comes as little surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the limelight for what has consistently defined its heart: an profound passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a constant dialogue from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and elevated to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and kiosks – lesser-known treasures that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and involved. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however say that their children do not want to learn the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will inspire more people around the world to explore these tales and visit the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
